Monday, February 22, 2016

Liela Dark Elf Wizard: Figure 200 of 266

    Let the fanfare play; here we are at figure 200!   It feels good to hit another milestone on this adventure!  It seems all down hill from here, with only 66 figures left to go. With some real determination I think I get this done by the end of the year.  So without further ado, on to figure 200!     This past week I completed Liela, Dark Elf Wizard, from the Dark Elves set.  With the completion of this figure, I have only one left from this set to paint.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish- soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene's Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer's glue.
     I began by painting her clothing with Crafter's Acrylic "Purple Passion". I then painted her cape with Crafter's Acrylic "African Violet", and her legging and arm wraps with Folk Art "Porcelain Grey"
     Next, I painted her hair with Folk Art "Celadon Green".  I then painted over her clothing with Folk Art "Metallic Amethyst".  I worked on her staff next, painting the shaft with Crafter's Acrylic "Navy Blue, and the object on top with Crafter's Acrylic "Citrus Green".
     I completed the staff by painting the binding on it with Folk Art "Porcelain White".  I then let the figure dry for a while, and then gave the complete figure a wash with GW "Badab Black" wash.   When the wash was dry, I painted all her skin Black
     When the "Badab Black" wash was dry, I began work on the highlights.  I first painted her eyes, and when finished, I highlighted all her skin with a mix of Apple Barrel "Apple Black Green", and Crafter's Acrylic "Forest Green".  I then highlighted her hair with White, and highlighted her legging and arm wraps, as well as the binding on the staff, with Crafter's Acrylic "Light Antique White".  Next, I highlighted her cape with a mix of the "African Violet", and Apple Barrel "Apple Lavender". Her clothing I highlighted with the "Metallic Amethyst" with a little Folk Art "Silver Sterling" mixed in.   I hen moved to the staff, highlighting the shaft with the base "Navy Blue", and the object on top with the base "Citrus Green".  I then added a little White to the "Citrus Green" to do some spot highlights. I painted the dagger scabbards she's wearing with "Americana "Zinc".
   I then painted her knee and elbow armor, as well as her headband and some of the dingle-dangles on her belt, with Ceramcoat "Metallic Copper".  When the "Metallic Copper" was dry, I gave it a wash with some GW "Agrax Earthshade" wash.  When the wash was dry, I went back and added some highlights with the base "Metallic Copper".  I then painted the dagger she's holding, as well as metal parts on the daggers in the scabbards she's wearing, with Folk Art Metallics "Gunmetal Grey".   I then did highlights on the metal with the "Silver Sterling".  I painted the dagger grips Black, and then did quick highlights on them with the "Navy Blue".   Lastly, I painted her integral base with Ceramcoat "Walnut".
    After the figure had overnight to dry, I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat "Matte Varnish" the following morning.  Later that morning I flocked the base, and that evening I sprayed the figure with Testor's Dullcote.
     I'm pleased with how she came out, though I wish I had done more with her face and expression.  She looks rather blank faced.

Figure 200 of 266: Complete.  On to the last 66!

4 comments:

  1. Great job getting to figure 200.

    Of all the figure you have prepped and painted, did you pay much attention to removed any mold lines? I have noticed removing mold lines from this particular material is very time taxing and perhaps not worth it so much.

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    1. Thank you!

      I'd say I mess with the mold lines on only about 1 out of every 5 or 6 Bones figures I paint. And that's only when I notice something particularly obvious on an easy to clean surface. Most of the mold lines are well hidden along the sides of the figure, so aren't usually noticeable when the figure is viewed straight on. Since ll the figures I paint are intended to be used as playing pieces, and not show pieces, I never thought it was worth my time to mess with trimming them. You really seldom notice them on the game table. And, as you say, this material is not the most friendly for removing mold lines.

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  2. Very nice choice of colors. She is painted quite well.

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