Monday, December 8, 2014

Norgol, Irongrave Knight: Figure 128 of 265

This week I finished up the BBEG set by painting Norgol, Irongrave Knight.  This set now joins the list of Completed Sets over on the right.
      I prepped this figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying.  I then glued the figure to a 1" black-primed fender washer with Aleene's Tacky glue, and glued the washer to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of Elmer's White Glue.
  I then painted him all black. I avoided the cloak's interior as best I could, but didn't worry too much if some black got on it.  When the black was dry, I went back over the figure and drybrushed throughly it with Ceramcoat "Metallic Pewter".
I then touched up anywhere the metallic drybrushing had gotten on the shoulder fur, or the cloak's exterior, with more black.  Next, I drybrushed the fur with Folk Art "Medium Grey", and then drybrushed the outer portion of the cloak with Duncan "Slate Blue". I then went back and touched up anywhere these colors had gotten on the armor with the "Metallic Pewter" color
My next step was to paint the cloak's interior lining with GW "Blood Red".  The ax handle I painted Americana "Mississippi Mud", and the belt I painted Ceramcoat "Walnut".
I then gave the cloak's lining, and the ax handle, a wash with thinned Winsor-Newton "Peat Brow" ink.  While this dried, I painted the skull on his chest armor and the one on his ax with Ceramcoat Bronze.  I then went back and added highlights to these with Ceramcoat "14K Gold". Lastly, I added highlights to the armor and the ax with Folk Art "Silver Sterling".   I then painted any exposed white on the figure's integral base with the "Walnut".  I intentionally did not highlight the red lining of the cloak since most of it hung in shadow, I felt it would look odd with highlighting.
     The next morning I gave it  coat of  Ceramcoat "Mate Varnish". Later that afternoon, I flocked the base.  The following day, I sprayed the figure with "Testor's Dullcote".
I'm very pleased with how this guy turned out for what was a very quick and simple paint job.  He's got a good menacing attitude about him.
This week, I get back to work on the Pathfinder Goblins.

8 comments:

  1. Nice one, very old skool looking Chaos Warrior....

    Two quick questions:

    1- Do you use the same technique as with the GW washes to thin your ink?

    2- Why the ink and not the good old delvan mud?

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    1. Thanks!
      1- No, I find the ink need a little more thinning. I unscrew the lid, set it upside down, and with my brush put a blop of ink in the lid. Then I take my brush and dip it in my water, and then slide the bristles against the edge of the lid so the water runs down into it and mixes with the ink. When it looks the thinness that I want, I stop. Sometimes I do that twice if I really want it thin.

      2- I find the Winsor-Newton Peat Brown ink is a more ruddy deep red-brown ink, and the Devlan Mud I feel is more of a gray-brown ink. I use the Peat Brown for flesh, gold metals, and warm colors, and the Devlan Mud for silver metals, and cold colors.

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  2. Thanks for these awesome tutorials. I have fair to middling painting skills and am always looking to improve. Norgol is on my to-do list this month.

    I see you use Folk Art paints among others. I have been using inexpensive brands such as Folk Art, Americana and Apple Barrel because I don't want to pay Reaper or Vallejo prices. Do you think the quality of these cheaper paints is good enough for minis, even pewter ones? I heard somewhere about cheaper paints being too "granular" or something and that they are not as vibrant.

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    1. Thanks for the kind remarks. I'm glad you are enjoying the blog.

      I have never had a problem with using craft paints and have been using mainly that type of paint for the last 30+ years. The majority of what I have painted over the years is metal miniatures; so yes, I think they work just fine for pewter (assuming you prime beforehand). The only down side is I find I may need to apply a second or third coat occasionally with some colors to get really good coverage.
      If you browse through my main blog (linked over in the right hand column here) you will see many metal figures I have painted with craft paint. Here are just a couple specific examples:
      http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JXU_Oxj5m3o/T-eJhYFTMxI/AAAAAAAAB8M/9YllvhfUipI/s1600/IMG_8915.JPG

      http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3dalptRQ0EE/TjHHgPTSRWI/AAAAAAAAA5w/G2u-P8_l3to/s1600/IMG_7803.JPG

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    2. Thanks! Your blog is such an excellent resource. I have your treasure chest and dwarf entries bookmarked right now, as I am getting ready to tackle both (Freja in particular). I've been wanting to paint Freja for the longest time but never had the confidence to pull off a decent paint job. Flesh tones and hair in particular always give me trouble--highlighting and trying to fix them so they don't look so flat or muddy. It helps tremendously that you even state what brand and shade you use so I can get the corresponding Americana or Folk Art color. (No way I'm paying 5 bucks or more a pop for Reaper or something x a dozen 2 oz bottles).

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    3. I'm glad I can be of help! :)

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